QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS ON POPULAR APPLICATIONS
General Information
Answer: I’m sure we’ve all experienced a finishing fiasco at one time or another – when you just can’t get the perfect finish – have you inspected your work in between each MICRO-MESH™ step? You should…
If you’re using MICRO-MESH™ with water a slurry will result. While this keeps the surface cool, you can sand more effortlessly, and the MICRO-MESH™ is kept free from abraded materials there is one disadvantage: The water will fill the scratches and the surface will appear to be restored when it is in fact – not.
We suggest that after each step, especially after the most critical initial step, that you flush the sanded area clean with water, dry the surface with a soft cloth, and visually inspect to see that the previous damage or scratch pattern has been removed. If the resulting scratch pattern is due to you not being completely thorough, redo the step. However, if you have been diligent with your process but the original damage remains you probably need a coarser grade of MICRO-MESH™ than the one you just used.
Always work where your lighting is the best or use a shop light. If you leave a scratch in from step #1, it will still be present after the 2nd step, third, and so on. That’s why some restorers will end up with a hazy finish. The haze that they see is actually a scratch pattern left from several steps back in the process.
Answer: No. The corrective factor is in the curvature of the lens of your glasses. Sanding away even micro thousandts of material will alter the curvature and therefore alter your prescription.
You can however, use them on non-perscription safety glasses.
We also do not recommend you use our material on sunglasses. Sunglasses have a very thin coating that if sanded through would not be repairable.
Answer: No, this is not an application for MICRO-MESH™. Glass has a much harder molecular structure than acrylic or polycarbonate and although some damage might be able to be removed, you would be unable to polish it back out to optical clarity leaving you with a scratched windshield.
Answer: If possible, it is always better to use a lubricant. This will extend the life of the MICRO-MESH™ greatly and keep the material from loading. It will also keep heat generation to a minimum. There are many types of lubricants, but generally water is best. It is best to work using a light mist or spray. Flooding the work surface or work piece is not recommended as it will cause the abrasive to skate across the surface, making less contact and removing less material.
Aircraft Transparencies
Answer: Acrylic, polycarbonates, and plastics are all pourous materials. They will absorb whatever you place on their surface over time. Solvents will break down, deteriorate, yellow, haze, and craze transparencies.
There are many ways solvents are introduced to transparencies: washer/cleaner fluids, jet fuel, de-icing fluids, paint thinners, unapproved window cleaners, and polishes.
It is very important to read the labels of the products you use around your transparencies. Anything containing, petroleum distillates, wax, ammonia, or alcohol is not recommended.
Answer: Generally, if you restore just the spot or damaged area you will end up with distortion in this area. It is always better to remove an equal amount of material from the entire surface of the transparency. The only exception to this rule would be if the damaged area is not in the pilot’s line of vision. In that case, it is a matter of personal preference whether or not you do a spot repair.
Metal Finishing
Answer: Chatter marks can be caused by either too much tension or too low belt tension. This will cause the belts to “flutter” and create machine vibration. To eliminate, lower or increase tension to a point where the belt runs more smoothly.
Solid Surface Finishing
Answer: Several things may be the reason:
#1. Were you thorough with each step or grade of MICRO-MESH™. If you went on to the next step too soon, without removing the previous step completely, you will see those scratches in the end.
#2. Did you wipe down the surface in between grits and inspect your work? You could be sanding abraded material right back into your finish. This would cause random scratches to be left.
Answer: Sometimes it will help to switch to an extra soft back-up pad when you get to 4000 MICRO-MESH™ and on to 12000. The soft pad will cause the abrasive pad to float more easily across the work piece making it easier to polish. You can also try using a water mist on the last step, 12000.